Types of Chemical Peels
AHA Peels
These are a group of superficial skin peeling ingredients that are derived from fruits.
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Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels can treat conditions confined to the epidermis, with minimal recovery, downtime and side effects.
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The most exfoliating AHA is glycolic acid.
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With adequate preparation AHA peels can be used on all skin types and cause none to very light epidermal peeling.
Retinol Peels
Retinol is vitamin A, which is the natural precursor of retinoic acid.
Retinol works to:
Increase collagen and elastin production - making the skin more elastic and plump.
Indications and mechanism of action retinol peels:
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Acne:
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Retinoids enter the cell and interact with nuclear receptors involved in epithelial cell growth and differentiation.
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This process reverses thickening of the stratum corneum and the abnormal desquamation of keratinocytes which leads to normalisation of follicular keratinisation.
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The formation of new comedones is inhibited.
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Photoaging:
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Among all of the topical retinoids, tretinoin (retinoic acid) is the most potent therapy for photoageing.
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Retinoid treatments increase type I and I procollagen gene expression, increase elastin and fibrillin and increase epidermal thickening.
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Retinoids are also significant suppressors of MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases), the enzymes that degrade the extracellular matrix.
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Retinoids increase water content in the dermis by stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, particularly hyaluronic acid (HA).
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Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma:
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Retinoids cause dispersion of the melanin in the basal epidermis, which helps to reduce hyperpigmentation in treated areas.
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The combination of retinoids and tyrosinase inhibitors is very common in the treatment of melasma.
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Jessner Peels
Jessners solution is a superficial to medium depth peel that constitutes a mixture of salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol in 95% ethanol. Historically Jessners solution has been used for over 100 years as a therapeutic agent to treat hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions. It is an extremely versatile peel that can be used for most peeling indications and can be customised by the number of passes applied.
TCA Peels
Jessners solution is a superficial to medium depth peel that constitutes a mixture of salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol in 95% ethanol. Historically Jessners solution has been used for over 100 years as a therapeutic agent to treat hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions. It is an extremely versatile peel that can be used for most peeling indications and can be customised by the number of passes applied.
Inidcations for Chemical Peels
AHA Peels
Common indications for AHA peels:
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Photo-ageing
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Acne/open pores
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Dry, rough, dull skin texture
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Superficial pigmentation
Retinol Peels
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Common indications for retinol peels:
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Photo-ageing
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Acne/open pores
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Dry, rough, dull skin texture
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Superficial pigmentation
TCA Peels
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Jessner Peels
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